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领带系住你的品位

点击:2575 日期:2011-07-20 11:03:16

来源:钱江晚报·网络版深圳丝巾厂

 上海对外贸易学院最受欢迎课程不是会计或者国际法,而是这样一门课程:西方礼节。 

  在一些商务活动场合,我们经常能看到服装搭配非常“滑稽”的现象:穿着深色的西装、浅色裤子、大花纹的高级皮鞋、浅色的袜子,手上套着几个跟扳指般大小的戒指。而且,在洽谈的时候,旁若无人地抽起了烟,翘起的腿不时抖动着。吃饭的时候,咀嚼声很响……

  “中国人富裕的速度太快,以致他们还没来得及学习与其财富相称的一些礼节。”如今,私立西式礼仪学校如雨后春笋般出现以满足城市雅皮士在一个日益国际化环境中提高其用餐、穿着和工作修养的需求。

  在上海的JuneYamada学院,学生支付900美元在五星级酒店进修数周的礼节课程,学习如何区别使用食用鱼类的刀叉和食用奶油的刀叉……如今,良好的礼仪意味着更好更多的机会。

  “克林顿就是靠他对领带的品味赢得了许多选票。”在上海训练人力部经理的礼节工作室里,讲师刘维将一个男士叫出来,批评他没有品味的粉红领带。 

  俗话说:男人不嫌领带多,女人不嫌鞋子多。很多男士衣柜里领带不少,但是要穿起西装来,却为怎样搭配衬衣和领带大伤脑筋。

  领带在男装里原本就是雄纠纠气昂昂的单品,和西装一样从军装发迹,最早可回溯到17世纪,欧洲在克罗埃西亚发动的三十年战争,一组克罗埃西亚佣兵服装上出现的scarf,据说就是领带前身,法国路易士十四时,才以法文Cravate为领带正式正名。

领带暗示着你的品位 

  西装不必常换,领带是一定要常换的,因为只有领带才系得住正装的时尚品位,而且领带天天换也是西装的铁定规矩。若你不肯淘汰过气的旧领带,不肯每天换一条不同的领带,那品味也就与你无缘了。 
  “每个成功男人背后都有一个会打领带的女人。”虽然领带难打,但是不可或缺。领带的美丽与用途之一在于,那延长的布片恰当地盖住了衬衫纽扣,强调了身体的垂直,这意味着你会看起来更高。另外,在完成与衬衫和西装的整体搭配的同时,它也给你带来高贵和富有的感觉。

  领带在很大程度上暗示着主人的个性、品位以及社会地位。比如,银行家的领带通常会比较保守和单一,颜色会以深蓝和灰色为主。而艺术家和娱乐界人士的领带就会比较时尚和多样。 

  时尚圈对硬邦邦的方程式兴趣不大,却在领带的“装饰功能”方面,频频造就新话题,譬如:美式品牌偏好与衬衫同色系搭配;意大利前卫品牌可能版型细长;甚至动用皮革;春夏几个品牌领带变化多端,宛如孔雀开屏。

领带的长度与宽度 

  领带每季也有趋势可循,宽窄版是一种,花色是一种,不过,近年逐渐混合,粗细宽窄各有拥护品牌,窄版时髦,宽版优雅,是放诸四海皆准的共识。一种说法,是领带宽幅与衣襟宽度应成正比,即以衣襟水平横面最宽位置为准,选择接近宽度的领带,用意是平衡胸前V-Zone的协调与平衡;简而言之,衣襟越宽,领带宽度就该依比例增大。
  通常,领带适当的宽度应该在三英寸左右,但近年似乎有增宽的趋势,像上世纪六七十年代就曾流行过加宽型。然而,宽于五英寸是不恰当的,接近四英寸是最理想的。长度上,以52英寸至58英寸为宜,具体要由品牌和风格而定。

每种花纹都有不同的含义 

  一条既耐用又适合多种服装搭配的万用办公室领带一般要求颜色单一,以黑色丝绢质感的领带用途最广,不过一定要是带有规则立体织纹且为手工缝制的领带。 
  点状领带总是能给人古典的感觉。同样是圆点状领带,还有点的大小之分。建议年轻男士尽量选择点状较小且针织细致的领带,因为这样更能衬托出你的优雅细致的个人品位。 

  斜纹领带颇受年轻男士的喜爱,原因是间隔不同的斜纹粗细及颜色能搭配出完全不同的感觉,如:粗细完全一致并采用交错出现的纹路是一种学院派风格,其中以蓝黄或是蓝红相间纹路为代表;另一种是一粗一细间隔出现,在两色衔接处再配上装饰色条,显得稳重且高雅。 

  一般来说,斜纹的领带代表勇敢,方格代表热情,碎花代表体贴,垂直线代表安逸,横线显得平稳,波纹线代表活泼、跳跃,圆形代表饱满成熟。

领带配衬衣 

  领带配衬衣,只要掌握了几点原则,就能省去很多的烦恼。最重要的一点是同类型的图案不要相配,例如,格子的西装不要配格子的衬衣和格子的领带。
  1、如果你穿了件暗格子的西装,配素色或条纹、花纹的衬衣和领带会很漂亮。

  2、格子的衬衣配斜纹的领带,直纹的衬衣配方格图案的领带,虽然都是直线条,但却有纹路方向的变化,不会单调呆板。

  3、暗格图案的衬衣配花纹的领带。暗格在这里能当作素色处理,印花或花型图案的领带最好配素色的衬衣。如果配格子或线条的衬衣,多少都会令人有一点眼花缭乱。

颜色的搭配 

  1、领带的底色是浅棕色并有与外套同色的斜纹,配白色的衬衣显得很斯文。
  2、黄色的素色领带配黄色的条纹衬衣,使人显得很清爽。

  3、两款反传统的搭配方法:暗红色格子形状的领带搭配白底灰条纹的衬衣以及灰色的西装外套,不拘一格中流露着潇洒。

  4、素色衬衣与领带与西装的搭配法,都是素色的衬衣与各种图案、颜色的领带的搭配。衬衣的颜色能与领带或同色系或与领带的颜色形成反差都很好看。无论配条纹、方格还是花形图案也都不会出错。

  5、如果你在选择有多种颜色图案的领带时,留意图案中的任何一种颜色能与衬衣或西装颜色一样的话,效果便会锦上添花。

  6、一种纯粹的颜色配上完美的做工和百分之百的真丝,会永远透着它的出众与高贵。如果你想更时髦一些,那么可以选择高科技合成的灰色和黑色,这两种颜色提供了丰富的款式,你可以自由地搭配风格近似的衬衫和剪裁良好的西装。

你应该避免佩戴的领带 

  不要戴大型象征图案、故事图案、紫色以及过短的领带。你也不要去在意哪种图案流行。应避免在色彩、图案、形状和尺寸上不同寻常的领带。还有一种领带,其图案是黑色的花边底子上有稀疏松散的红色簇团,请男士们尽量不要去选择。 


来源: 钱江晚报  作者:  编辑: 张伟群 深圳领带厂

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